World War I (1914-1918) not only reshaped the geopolitical landscape but also fundamentally altered the world of fashion. This article explores the complex interplay between the war effort, social change, and sartorial trends. It examines the decline of opulent Edwardian styles, the rise of practical and utilitarian garments for women entering the workforce, and the influence of military aesthetics on both male and female attire. Additionally, the article analyzes the impact of wartime shortages and the rise of wartime thrift and resourcefulness.

World War I and the Fashion:

The outbreak of World War I in 1914 marked a turning point not just in global politics but also in the realm of fashion. The opulent and restrictive styles of the Edwardian era, characterized by elaborate corsets, floor-length gowns, and excessive ornamentation, became increasingly impractical in the face of war. As men went off to fight, women stepped into their vacated roles in factories, farms, and offices. This social shift demanded a new kind of clothing – functional, comfortable, and suitable for the demands of wartime labor.

The Decline of Edwardian Opulence:

The pre-war era was dominated by Parisian haute couture, a world of luxurious fabrics like silk and velvet, intricate lacework and beading, and a focus on emphasizing the female hourglass figure achieved through tightly laced corsets. This focus on opulence and restricted movement stood in stark contrast to the harsh realities of war.

The war disrupted the global supply chains that fed this fashion industry. Trade routes became perilous, and resources were diverted to the war effort. This meant scarcity of the very materials needed for opulent fashions. Silk imports plummeted, and even basic fabrics like wool became more expensive. Additionally, the frivolity associated with these fashions felt incongruous with the harsh realities of war. Elaborate ball gowns seemed out of place when people were facing food shortages and daily reminders of the devastation at the frontlines.

A Shift in Silhouette:

As practicality became the new watchword, fashion designers began to adapt. Silhouettes loosened, with a move away from the restrictive corseted forms of the Edwardian era. Waistlines rose slightly, and hemlines gradually climbed to just below the knee. This allowed for greater ease of movement, a necessity for women performing tasks previously considered men’s work. Skirts became more streamlined, with less emphasis on fullness and layers.

The Rise of Practicality: Women and Workwear:

With millions of men enlisted, the home front witnessed a surge in women entering the workforce in unprecedented numbers. They took on jobs in factories producing munitions and essential goods, as well as in transportation, agriculture, and clerical roles previously held by men. This necessitated a significant shift in women’s clothing.

Corsets, which restricted movement and posed a safety hazard in factory settings, began to fall out of favor. Designers introduced shirtwaist dresses, a style featuring a fitted bodice with a separate, often detachable, blouse-like top. These dresses were typically made from cotton or linen for durability and ease of care. Many featured pockets, a revolutionary addition to women’s clothing that offered practicality for carrying tools or supplies. For particularly demanding jobs, women adopted overalls, previously considered exclusively men’s attire.

Military Influence:

The aesthetics of military uniforms also began to influence civilian fashion. Tailored jackets with strong shoulders and brass buttons became popular choices for women. This style, reminiscent of military dress jackets, offered a sense of authority and capability, reflecting the changing roles women were taking on in society. Khaki, the utilitarian color of military garb, was incorporated into civilian clothing, particularly for women’s workwear. This blurring of lines between civilian and military attire reflected the all-encompassing nature of the war effort. It also served as a symbolic gesture of solidarity with the men fighting on the frontlines, with women adopting a more utilitarian style to demonstrate their commitment to the war cause.

The Impact of Wartime Shortages:

The war severely disrupted the production and import of textiles. Fabrics like silk and wool became scarce and expensive. This forced a shift in consumer behavior and fueled a rise in wartime thrift and resourcefulness. Women began to mend and alter existing garments, turning old clothes into new styles. They learned techniques like patching, darning, and refashioning to extend the life of their clothing. Additionally, knitting became a popular activity, with women creating warm socks, scarves, and sweaters for soldiers fighting in harsh conditions. This focus on practicality and resourcefulness extended beyond clothing and into other aspects of daily life, fostering a culture of “make do and mend” that emphasized self-reliance and conservation.

Fashion and Patriotism:

Fashion also became a tool for expressing patriotism during World War I. Women adorned their clothing with national flags, military ribbons, and other patriotic symbols. Colors like red, white, and blue became particularly popular choices, reflecting the national colors of many of the countries involved in the war. Hats were a prime canvas for patriotic expression. Previously elaborate and adorned with feathers and flowers, wartime hats became simpler, often featuring ribbons in national colors or small pins depicting soldiers or flags. Additionally, some women incorporated military-inspired details like epaulets or brass buttons into their clothing.

This sartorial patriotism served to unify the home front and demonstrate support for the war effort. It fostered a sense of national identity and collective purpose as civilians rallied behind the troops. Newspapers and magazines featured articles and illustrations showcasing fashionable ways to incorporate patriotic elements into one’s wardrobe, further solidifying the link between fashion and national pride.

The Post-War Era and Lasting Changes:

The end of World War I in 1918 brought about a further loosening of fashion restrictions. The shorter hemlines and more relaxed silhouettes adopted during the war remained popular. Women continued to wear trousers and practical clothing, a trend that challenged pre-war notions of femininity. The war had not only necessitated a change in clothing but also accelerated a shift in societal attitudes towards women’s roles. Women who had proven their capabilities in the workforce were less likely to be content returning to a life confined to the domestic sphere.

The Rise of Ready-to-Wear:

The war also saw a rise in the popularity of ready-to-wear clothing. Prior to the war, most clothing was custom-made by tailors or dressmakers. However, wartime demands for mass production led to the development of more efficient garment manufacturing techniques. This, coupled with a growing workforce of women with newfound disposable income, fueled the demand for ready-to-wear garments. These factory-made garments were typically less expensive than custom-made pieces, making them accessible to a wider range of women.

A New Silhouette:

The “flapper” style of the 1920s emerged from the sartorial changes of World War I. Flapper dresses were straight and loose-fitting, often dropping below the knee but not reaching the ankle. This silhouette offered a stark contrast to the restrictive, hourglass figures favored in the pre-war era. Hemlines continued to rise throughout the decade, reaching mid-calf by the late 1920s. This dramatic shift in hemline reflected a new sense of freedom and mobility for women.

Specific regional variations in wartime fashion trends:

While the overall trend leaned towards practicality across Europe and North America, regional variations in wartime fashion offer a fascinating glimpse into the cultural nuances of the war experience.

• Britain: British wartime fashion was characterized by a strong emphasis on practicality and resourcefulness. Women adopted “Land Army” uniforms for agricultural work, featuring breeches, sturdy boots, and hats with wide brims for sun protection. Knitting became a national pastime, with women creating warm garments for soldiers on the frontlines.
• France: French fashion, even amidst wartime constraints, retained a touch of elegance. Shorter hemlines were paired with tailored jackets and blouses, reflecting a more streamlined yet sophisticated approach to practicality. French designers also incorporated patriotic elements, such as tricolor ribbons or motifs, into their designs.
• Germany: German wartime fashion was marked by a focus on functionality and self-sufficiency. Women wore simple, utilitarian dresses and trousers made from domestically produced fabrics like linen and hemp. There was less emphasis on overt displays of patriotism compared to other countries, likely due to wartime shortages and government rationing.
• United States: American fashion during World War I embraced a more casual and sporty aesthetic. Women adopted shirtwaist dresses and “Victory blouses,” featuring practical details like pockets and buttons. Knitting became immensely popular, with campaigns urging women to contribute to the war effort by creating warm clothing for soldiers.

The role of fashion magazines in wartime propaganda, and how they both reflected and influenced changing wartime styles:

Fashion magazines played a crucial role in wartime propaganda by promoting practical and patriotic styles. They featured articles and illustrations showcasing how women could adapt their wardrobes for wartime work, often highlighting ways to incorporate patriotic elements into their clothing choices.

• Reflecting Change: Fashion magazines served as a barometer of evolving wartime trends. As hemlines rose and silhouettes became looser, magazines featured these changes and provided tips on how to adapt existing garments or acquire new ones that reflected the evolving styles.
• Influencing Fashion: Magazines also actively influenced wartime fashion by showcasing designs from prominent couturiers and highlighting trends emerging from different regions. This helped to disseminate new ideas and encourage women to adopt more practical and utilitarian styles.
• Promoting Patriotism: Magazines included articles on how to incorporate national colors, flags, and military-inspired details into clothing. They also featured interviews with women working in essential industries, portraying them in their practical wartime attire and further solidifying the link between fashion and national service.

The impact of the war on men’s fashion, particularly the adoption of more utilitarian styles and the decline of formal wear:

The war significantly impacted men’s fashion, pushing it towards a more utilitarian aesthetic.

• Military Influence: Military uniforms became the dominant influence on men’s clothing. Tailored jackets with strong shoulders and brass buttons became popular choices for civilian wear, reflecting a desire to emulate the sense of authority and purpose associated with the military.
• Practicality Over Formality: Formal wear, such as top hats and three-piece suits, became less common as men adopted more practical clothing for everyday life. Trousers made from durable fabrics like wool and khaki became the norm, along with simple shirts and sturdy boots.
• Wartime Shortages: Wartime shortages of fabric and resources played a role in the decline of formal wear. Luxury fabrics were prioritized for military use, leaving men with fewer options for formal attire. Additionally, the focus on practicality during wartime meant that men were less inclined to invest in elaborate and impractical clothing.

The experiences of women working in the fashion industry during wartime, including designers, seamstresses, and garment workers:

The war experience for women working in the fashion industry was multifaceted.

• Designers: Many established designers faced challenges due to wartime shortages and restrictions. However, some designers embraced the shift towards practicality and found success in creating stylish yet functional garments for the working woman. Additionally, new female designers emerged during this period, catering to the changing needs and desires of wartime fashion consumers.
• Seamstresses and Garment Workers: Seamstresses and garment workers experienced increased demand for their skills during the war. Women working in factories faced long hours and demanding production quotas, often churning out large quantities of practical clothing for both civilian and military use. The war also saw a rise in home sewing as women repaired and altered existing garments to make them last longer.

The psychological and social implications of fashion choices during wartime, and how clothing served as a means of expressing identity, coping with loss, and navigating a world transformed by war:

Fashion choices during wartime held a deeper meaning beyond just practicality. Clothing served as a way for people to express a range of emotions and navigate a world transformed by war.

• Expression of Identity: For women entering the workforce, adopting practical clothing served as a way to claim their new roles and identities. Wearing trousers and overalls sent a message of capability and a rejection of pre-war notions of femininity. Men who wore military-inspired clothing, even in civilian settings, could express solidarity with those fighting on the frontlines and a sense of shared purpose in the war effort.
• Coping with Loss: The war brought immense loss and devastation. Clothing could be a way to express grief or commemorate loved ones lost in combat. Black armbands became a common symbol of mourning, while some women might incorporate personal mementos, like a soldier’s handkerchief, into their clothing as a way to keep their memory close.
• National Unity: Patriotic fashion choices, like wearing national colors or incorporating military motifs, served as a way to express national pride and a sense of unity during a time of great upheaval. It fostered a feeling of belonging and a shared commitment to the war effort.
• Adapting to Change: The war forced significant changes on society. Fashion choices became a way to navigate these changes and adapt to a new reality. Wearing practical clothing allowed people to embrace their wartime roles and responsibilities, while also signifying a willingness to contribute to the collective effort.

Conclusion:

World War I profoundly impacted the world of fashion. It led to a decline in opulent Edwardian styles, the rise of practical clothing for women entering the workforce, and the influence of military aesthetics on both male and female attire. The war also fostered a culture of wartime thrift and resourcefulness that extended beyond fashion and into everyday life. Ultimately, the sartorial changes brought about by World War I reflected a broader societal transformation, paving the way for a more modern and liberated approach to fashion in the decades that followed. The war not only reshaped the geopolitical landscape but also redefined the concept of femininity and laid the groundwork for the social and cultural changes that would characterize the “roaring twenties.”