One of the oldest human materials- leather, genuinely speaks of durability, style, and luxury. From clothes and shoes down to furniture and leather accessories, its versatility has kept the material relevant up to this day. But how is a raw animal hide turned into this supple leather used today? The article discusses the fascinating journey of leather making in detail, covering every step.

The Raw Material used in Leather

Animal skin forms the foundation of leather; hides from cows are the most common. Nevertheless, other hides and skins include those of pigs, sheep, goats, or even reptiles for different types of end products. These hides are usually by-products of the meat and dairy industries; therefore, leather making is a form of sustainable production that puts what would have been a waste product into good use.

From Farmyard to Factory: The Stages of Leather Making

There are broadly four steps to leather making: preparation, tanning, crusting, and finishing. Each of these stages has the role it plays in changing the raw hide into finished leather.

• Preparation: Cleaning and Preparing the Hide
• Curing: The newly removed hides are perishable and need immediate attention. To prevent putrefaction, they have to be conserved. This is normally accomplished by salting or drying. More specifically, this temporary preservation enables the hides to be transported and stored before being processed.
• Soaking: Rehydration of the hide takes place in the tannery by soaking them in water. This serves to remove the salt or drying agents applied while curing and reconstitutes the hide for further processing.
• Liming and Fleshing: The hides are then treated with a lime solution to loosen the hair and flesh. This operation, known as liming, enables an easier removal of the hair and fatty tissues—the so-called dehairing and fleshing.
• Bating and Pickling: After liming and fleshing, the hides are prepared for bating. At this stage, enzymes are used to break down proteins even more before the hide is introduced to tanning. The last process is pickling, which reduces the pH level of the hide so that it can be receptive to tanning agents.
• Tanning: The Heart of Leather Making

Tanning is a critical stage in the conversion of a putrescible hide to stable leather. This operation consists of introducing tanning agents, which bond chemically with the collagen of the hide to prevent its natural decomposition. There are two different tanning methods in general:

• Vegetable Tanning: This is a traditional process that makes use of naturally occurring tannins extracted from plants, principally tree bark, quebracho, and mimosa. Vegetable tanning may take several weeks, but it produces leather of great beauty and full color variation with good aroma. On the other hand, vegetable-tanned leather is more prone to moisture and requires special care.
• Chrome Tanning: This process is faster and more efficient, using Chromium Salts as the tanning agents. Chrome tanning yields strong yet light leather with water resistance; thus, this process is suitable for shoes, bags, and garments. However, chrome tanning could sometimes give a harsh feel, and it may raise some environmental concerns regarding chromium waste production.
• Crusting: Adding Function and Character

When it is tanned, the leather is no longer raw; however, it is still unfinished, and referred to as “crust.” As the name suggests, crusting involves treating the leather with products and processes to develop its properties and appearance as follows:

• Splitting: Some stronger hides may be split into two or more layers to obtain leathers of suitable thickness for various end uses.
• Neutralization: This is done by removing residual tanning chemicals from the tanned leather to prepare it for further processing.
• Fatliquoring: Replacement of oils and greases into the leather to make it supple and workable.
• Dyeing: Leather is subjected to a variety of colors with pigments or dyes to enhance aesthetic appearance.
• Finishing: The Final Touches

Finishing is the final stage where the leather gets surface characteristics and applications with protective coatings. Some common operations associated with finishing include:

• Staking: The leather is mechanically stretched and softened to achieve the desired texture.
• Buffing: It smoothes out the surface for a shiny appearance.
• Coating: Application of waxes, resins, or polymers can be done for water-resistance, stain protection, or a distinct look according to what effect the leather product will take.

The Attraction of Leather: A Material as Old as Time

There’s only one combination of properties that is responsible for this indestructibility of the material:

• Durability
• Versatility
• Aesthetic
• Comfort

In general, leather making is an interesting process, full of history and heritage. Knowing the process from raw hide to the final product will foster appreciation for this multi-purpose material. Choosing top-quality, ethically sourced leather and taking proper care will allow consumers to continue enjoying timeless beauty and functionality from leather for years to come.